Sushi of Shiori

While relatively common in Japan, the intimate sushi bar is not something that seems to have engulfed Britain to any degree. The concept is simple: you pay a fee for a set menu, while entrusting an outstanding sushi chef to create a winding and delicious menu of intricate and deliciously fresh sushi and sashimi combinations for you. Think of it as the original tasting menu. One of Tokyo's first three-Michelin star restaurants is in this mould - it's not plush, it's not particularly fancy, but it is reputed to be transcendentally good.

We're not saying that you'll find yourself and have an out-of-body experience at Sushi of Shiori. Not even close. The husband and wife team operate at a counter with room for up to nine, mistaken for many as a takeaway overlooking a drab street in Euston. You call ahead, book ahead and tell them how much you want to pay for you dinner (£30-40 upwards: £50 is good, but customers have gone far north of that in the past) and from that you'll get a time and a bespoke sushi menu crafted for you based on the budget set. Ergo, a higher price means more luxurious ingredients.

However, more luxurious doesn't necessarily equate to more delicious, especially where sushi is concerned. The quality of the fish is outstanding, thus you're not exactly going to be hankering after foie gras when the basic salmon or tuna here can be so, so good. Each trip can be different, so it feels speculative to make 'recommendations' - all we can say that the fatty yellowtail we had was as perfect as a piece of food as we've ever eaten. Luxury items occasionally pop up (wagyu beef, for example), and cult favourites like fatty tuna and crunchy, playful salmon eggs feature prominently - but the beauty of the basics is always emphasised. The skill of the chef (a graduate of London's Umu restaurant) was spectacular and the interaction between chef, diner and other patrons majorly enhanced the experience. One for the serious sushi lover.

Opening Times

Tuesday - Saturday: Lunch: 11:30 - 14:30, Dinner: 17:30 - 22:00